With its generously padded imitation leather seat on a wood frame, the BP-090 is a solidly built piano bench with a price to fit any budget. Measuring 22 x 12.2 x 30 Inches , this bench comes in either a black or brown finish.
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This cushion is crafted entirely by Schaff Piano using only high-grade velour material and padded with thick 1" polyurethane foam for comfort. For durability and strength, all the strapping ties are double tacked to the cushion.
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Dear Business-Builder,
OK ... so you've got a product on your hands. Maybe it's your product. Or, maybe you're a copywriter and it's your client's product.
The question is, where do you find the prospects that are most ready, willing and able to become your customers?
That's the question I was asked recently. Well, actually, the question was a bit more specific:
"I have a new client selling jewelry items (ear rings, chains, broaches) targeted at those who feel patriotic about their country - and wish to display their pride on their clothing and body.
"We are discussing advertising in The National Enquirer-type of publication. Danbury and Franklin mint are consistent in there with products in similar price points.
"Where would I find mailing lists targeted at those who buy jewelry items at the 0 price point?
"What about lists of buyers who are patriotic - where would I find such a list?"
Soon as I read that question, I realized I've been woefully remiss in writing articles about advertising media. Should you begin with TV? Radio? A Web campaign? Print ads in newspapers or magazines? Direct mail?
I mean - it's kind of an important question when you think about it. After all - the medium you'll be using not only determines the cost of your promotion; it also is a major influence on the approach you're going to take in your sales copy!
So today, we're going to remedy that - with a basic, plain-English guide to selecting the advertising media that will give your promotions the greatest likelihood of success.
Or, alternatively titled ...
MEDIA SELECTION 101
Right off the bat, it helps to understand three all-important facts of life about selecting the optimal medium for your promotion ...
FACT #1: There Ain't No Such Thing as a Free Lunch. If you plan to rent a direct mail list, place an ad in a newspaper or magazine, buy time on TV or radio, plaster your business all over a billboard - or even buy space on the back of a matchbook - you might as well get used to it: You're going to have to unlimber your checkbook.
Think you can dodge the media cost bullet by building your business on the Internet? ... Maybe with affiliate programs, joint venture or per-inquiry (PI) deals?
Good luck! These programs are important, but your affiliates and joint venture partners - not you - get to decide if and when your ads run and by extension, if and when you'll become a success.
To produce the big numbers of new customers you're looking for, you'll need to seize control of your own fortunes. And that means renting e-mail lists, buying banners on websites, signing on for pay-per-click campaigns -- and unless you personally have the time and knowledge required, paying someone else to make sure the search engines can find your site.
FACT #2: Some Advertising Media Cost More Than Others. The rates a particular medium charges you are generally based on four things ...
A. The number of people who will see your message: The number of people who subscribe, read, view or listen to a particular medium is often referred to as "impressions" or "eyeballs" - and the more eyeballs you get, the more you pay.
The cost of a medium divided by eyeballs tells you how much you're paying to deliver your sales message to one prospect. Multiply that number times one thousand and you get that medium's "cost per thousand" or "CPM." CPM is the number that's usually used to compare the cost of various media.
A 30-second television spot in a local market might cost you as little as /M. A red-hot direct mail list could cost you 0/M or more.
B. The size of your ad: In addition to the number of eyeballs you get, you also pay for how much time or space your ad will consume. Full-page ads cost more than little ones; 30-second commercials cost less than 30-minute infomercials. Even in bulk mailings, basic postage rates allow you up to three ounces of material. If you want to send more, you'll have to pay more.
C. The type of people who will see your message: As a general rule ...
Media that deliver your ad to the gray masses are the cheapest on a CPM basis: Billboards, general-interest newspapers and tabloids, local TV and radio channels, for example ...
Media that deliver your ad to better-defined audiences cost a little more: Special interest magazines, cable channels and websites, for example ...
And the media that put your sales message only in front of people who are most highly qualified to buy your product charge out the wazzoo: Highly selected direct mail and e-mail lists of folks who have bought your type of product through this kind of medium in the recent past are at the top of the media cost pecking order (and usually, well-worth it!).
FACT #3: Some Advertising Media Produce Higher Response Rates Than Others. If you ever had the opportunity to run the exact same sales copy on every medium available, you'd probably find that the percentage of folks who respond to your ad will be up to 100 times greater in some media than in others.
Same ad, same copy, same offer - massive response differential.
Why?
Well, for one thing, there's the competition. If your sales message is just one in a big newspaper or magazine or clustered with others on TV or radio, not all readers will see or hear you - and therefore, the media will probably cost you less.
On the other hand, if your sales message is delivered all by itself (as in direct mail or e-mail blasts), your response rate could be up to 100 times higher - and the media cost will also be higher.
But there's another, more crucial reason why the response rates produced by some advertising media are so much higher than others ...
THE SELECTIVITY FACTOR
Media that produce the greatest response rates are invariably those that deliver your ad to your most qualified prospects. Put simply, they allow you to select your audience using one of three general criteria ...
1. Geographic Selection: Some media - billboards, general-interest newspapers and tabloids and local TV and radio stations, for example - can't tell you much about who'll see or hear your ad.
Sure -- they've done polls, so they can also give you a good idea of the average and/or median age and income level of their readers - and what percent are men vs. women. But that's pretty much it.
Beyond that, all they can really tell you for sure is the geographic area in which your ad will be seen -- a particular neighborhood ... Zip code ... SCF (the first three digits of your Zip code) ... city ... metro area ... county ... state ... region ... or nation, for example.
By their very nature, they can't offer you the choice to advertise only to men or women or folks above a particular income level.
On the other hand, these media are extremely cheap. So, if just about everyone in a particular area is a prospect for your product, these geographically defined media can actually be highly cost-effective.
But ...
If only women buy your product, you could be wasting up to half of your advertising dollar - effectively doubling your media costs ...
If only women over 50 are prospects, you could be quadrupling your media costs ...
If only women over 50 with osteoporosis are prospects, you could be multiplying your media costs by a factor of ten ...
And if your best prospect is a woman over 50 with osteoporosis who would try an alternative treatment, and can afford your product, you could be wasting 99% or more of every ad dollar.
2. Demographic Selection: Because they exclude obvious non-prospects, advertising media that deliver consumers based on their sex, sexual orientation, race or ethnic group, age, education, profession, income level, home ownership, etc. - tend to produce substantially higher response rates.
Media that allow you to focus exclusively on the appropriate demographic for your product include ...
Special-interest magazines: Playboy, Maxim and Popular Mechanics deliver mostly men. Cosmo, Glamour and Woman's Day give you the ladies. Seventeen gives you young girls, Modern Maturity gives you us old fogies and Black Enterprise gives you Afro-American professionals. Prevention gives you health nuts ... Guns & Ammo gives you gun nuts ... Sports Illustrated gives you sports nuts ... ad infinitum.
Special-interest cable channels: Lifetime gives you women ... Discovery Health gives you health nuts ... The History Channel and History International give you history nuts ... Speed Channel gives you car nuts ... etc.
Special-interest web sites: With millions of sites out there, it's a deadlock cinch that you'll find a site that delivers your prime demographic - and then place your banners on that site.
Plus, just about every special-interest magazine you can name has a website and most will allow you to place banners on their sites for a fee.
Direct mail and e-mail lists: Take a look in the Standard Rate and Data Service (SRDS) for mail lists, and you'll see three kinds of lists:
1) Compiled lists - lists of names and addresses that were compiled from public records. Typical compiled lists include lists of addresses without names attached ("occupant lists"), lists of folks with drivers' licenses, homeowners, plus lists of professionals and so forth.
2) Inquiry lists - folks who have asked for more information in response to a lead-producing ad, but who have not made a purchase.
3) Buyer lists - folks who have actually purchased a product (or donated money) as the direct result of a promotion sent to them by mail. Naturally, these include the lists of people who subscribe to all the specialty magazines named above.
Depending on your product, all of these lists might give you the ability to ensure that your message is going to folks who satisfy your demographic criteria - but because buyer lists contain the names of folks who have actually spent money through the mail, they're by far the most responsive of the three.
3. Psychographic Selection: The greatest response rates you'll find - by a long shot - are produced by media that allow you to select your prospects psychographically.
Psychographic selection allows you to find prospects on the basis of their PROVEN interests, beliefs, fears and desires.
"Proven" is the operative word, here. Psychographic media - mostly mailing lists and e-mail lists (and the co-ops, ride-alongs and insert programs that go to those lists) -- deliver folks who have actually purchased a product like yours through a medium like the one you'll be using!
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER
Looking back at the question at the beginning of this article, my friend was thinking about 1) Advertising his patriotic jewelry in National Enquirer because Franklin Mint does, and ... 2) Mailing to lists of folks who previously bought jewelry items for around his 0 price point.
To me at least, either would be a mistake. Why? Because it totally leaves the prospects' dominant emotions out of the equation.
Since 99% of all purchases we make every day are made to satisfy an emotional need, that's like showing up at a gunfight and leaving 99% of your bullets in the glove compartment.
Instead, I'd want my promo going to folks who are, first and foremost, passionate about their love of country - so passionate, they'd love nothing better than to express that patriotism in the jewelry they wear.
My first question would be, "Where are the lists of folks who are already buying other kinds of patriotic jewelry at or around this price point?" In short, I'd look at direct competitors and try to rent their mailing lists.
My second question would be, "Where can I find people who have purchased non-jewelry patriotic items and who have paid about 0 per purchase?" I'd scan for direct mail and e-lists of people who've spent 0 to buy American flags, patriotic license plates, red-white-and-blue clothing, for example.
My third question would be, "Where can I find people who have such a compelling love of country that they'd probably jump at the chance to wear patriotic jewelry?" I'd look at magazines, websites, and mailing lists that deliver the most politically active folks out there: Members of political action committees and lobbying groups like the National Rifle Association ... Republican and Democrat fat cat donors ... members of veterans' organizations ... and so on.
Finally, after I've fully explored all of these media, my fourth question would be, "Where can I find general-interest media that's so cheap, I'll still make money even if my response rate is miniscule?" And that's where I'd look at print ads in huge circulation tabloids and TV.
Then, I'd sit down and do a little math:
"Hmmm ... my patriotic lapel pin costs me . I sell it for . That gives me an margin.
If my mail cost is 0 per thousand pieces mailed, I'll need to sell 6.25 pins for every thousand pieces mailed to break even.
That's a response rate of about .63%: About six-tenths of one percent.
Doable? Maybe. But that might restrict me to using only the most qualified lists out there. I'd better hedge my bets some.
For one thing, I could add a nice bump to my offer. Maybe a beautiful broach for my prospect's spouse for, say, an additional (gross profit: ).
That should get my average margin per sale up to around 0. At that rate, my break-even response rate drops to .38%. Now, we're talking!
------------------------
Well, this media question is a pretty big one - and we've only scratched the surface. True -- it's a scratch that would have gotten my butt whupped if I'd left it on my Mom's piano bench.
But it's still only a scratch. There's a lot more to consider - but I'll have to tackle the next step another time.
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Just what is the best saddle for touring? Drum Roll, please. The best saddle for touring is the saddle that fits your behind and allows you to ride in comfort!
Chief out touring
Okay maybe that wasn't the answer you were looking for, but it is the best we have to offer. No two people are shaped the same therefore no one saddle is going to be the end all saddle for every person.
The Bike Hermit used to tour on a Brooks B17, as to be expected, over time the saddle relaxed and had a bit of "splay" He punched holes in the sides (like the Brooks Imperial) and threaded the saddle with leather (from the Tandy leather store) and that solved the problem. About two years ago he switched to a Gilles Berthoud Aspin. This saddle was stiffer in the beginning and now has molded to his shape just perfectly. He easily has 3,000 miles on that saddle with no issues. Aha, you say, I will go research and purchase a Gilles Berthoud. Well, Sky King did her best to love the Gilles Berthoud Aspin spending hours adjusting height, position, angle etc but was never comfortable. Finally she measured her sit bones and realized between the shape and width of the Gilles Berthoud Aspin, it was never going to work for her. She went back to her older Fizik's vitesse tri and problem solved. She is back to all day, day after day saddle comfort. She does plan to try the Brooks B17 Narrow as she misses not being able to carry her Zimbale 7 liter saddlebag but for now the Fizik's Vitesse Tri is just fine.
Here are some very important things to consider when selecting a Saddle.
Shape:
Your shape and the saddle shape need to be happy. Most Saddles tend to be either a pear shape or a t-shape. The Gilles Berthoud Aspin and the Brooks B17 and Flyer fall into the pear shape category, the Brooks Swallow, the Zimbale leather saddle, the Brooks B17 Narrow and the Fizik's Vitesse are considered a T shape.
The Flyer does not narrow as quickly as the Zimbale
The width of the saddle across the widest area and how quickly it widens from the nose to the back will affect saddle comfort. Add to that the saddle position or the saddle tilt (nose down, nose up, nose level). Of course don't forget to factor in the entire bike fit.
Too Much Pear-Shape for your shape typically causes chafing in the inner neighborhood of the lower fold of the buttock, top-of-the-leg, panty line, hamstring attachment (however you want to describe it) because the saddle is too pear-shaped for the motion of your hip joints. If these are issues you have with your saddle, perhaps a T-Shaped style would work better. If you feel like you are sitting on a narrow, painful 2 X 4 a pear shaped saddle could be what you need.
Let's get back to saddle width and length. The size of your hips or the size of your behind has very little to do with the size of your saddle, wide hips do not mean you need a wider saddle. The width between your sit bones is what matters. Where those sit bones connect with your saddle makes the biggest impact in saddle comfort. Too wide or too narrow for your sit bones and the end result is pain and chafing. Sky King has a wider hip measurement than the Bike Hermit but he has a wider sit bone measurement.
Each saddle has "cheeks" on the wide back part. Sometimes the cheeks are even domed up a bit. Your sit bones are meant to land in the high part of that dome to take advantage of the padding and the overall architecture of the saddle. Saddle without domes still have a cheek area, the widest part of the saddle is where your sit bones should be resting. Measure the saddle from center of cheek to center of cheek. The saddle's center-to-center should match the center to center measurement of your sit bones.
Next measure the saddle's overall width. Generally the saddle's overall width should be, at minimum, the same as the outside measurement of your sit bones OR slightly wider but NO more than 2 centimeters wider than the outside sit bone measurement. You want to be able to shift around to power up hills or use body-english around corners or just to give your butt a break, and STILL have the bones land on the saddle.
In the case of a many leather saddles your saddle must be about 2 cm wider than your outside sit bone measurement so you do not have bones contacting the metal cantle* plate.
(*rough description - the horseshoe shaped metal plate under the back of the saddle that holds the rails in place)
Measure your sit bones:
We could get all fancy and purchase memory foam or drop some dollars on a fancy gel seat specifically designed to measure sit bones and assist in determining the proper saddle width but we hate to spend money when things at hand will work just as well.
Three inexpensive options for measuring Sit Bones:
The Flour method
Take a gallon size zip lock bag, fill with enough flour for about a two inch flour cushion when the bag is lying on a flat surface. Place this bag on a hard flat surface - table or chair (we use a piano bench) Sit on the bag (preferably bare skin), mimic your bike position. Now stand up without disturbing the bag. Those two dimples/impressions in the flour are from your sit bones.
The Play Dough method
To make your dough:
One part salt, two parts flour, mix with water until it's right for modeling.
Roll about an inch thick, cover with aluminum foil to keep it from being sticky, place dough w/ foil on a low bench, once again sit on dough (bare skin is best) and lean forward to approximate riding position since the sit bones become more narrow as you lean forward. Remove foil and allow to dry a little. The bones impression will become white first.
The Measurement
Take a millimeter tape measure and measure the impressions, recording your findings.
1. The inside edge to inside edge
2. Center of depression to center of depression, if easier, place a marble in each depression and measure the marbles.
3. Outside edge to outside edge
Center-to-center measurement correlates with the spot on a saddle that bears the weight of the sit bones. The saddle "cheeks".
Outside to outside measurement is a consideration for some types of saddles, such as the Brooks that have metal rails, you do not want to have your sit bones resting on the metal rails. General rule of thumb - your saddle width should be about 2 centimeters wider than outside sit bone measurement. Again, you want your sit bones resting on the "checks" of the saddle and you want some wiggle room for movement as you are touring.
Inside to inside may be necessary if you plan to use a saddle with a cut out, to ensure the sit bones clear any large center cutout in the saddle. The inside bones falling into the 'moat' so to speak, causes a lot of pain in the bones surrounding the "soft tissue" area. To clear the cutout, you need about 20 mm extra space in between the inside distance of the sit bones. So, if the cutout is 60 mm, your inside distance is 80, then you have just enough clearance.
The Hand Method(s) of measuring
Sit on your hands, and feel for the two bones of your butt. They feel like elbows poking down into your hands.
Put the tip of your index fingers right under the part of the bones that is pushing hardest into the chair. (squish the very tip of your fingers between the chair and your sit bones)
Lift your butt from the chair leaving your hands on the chair, and have your assistant measure the distance between your fingertips. This is pretty much your center-to-center.
Then put your fingertips against the outsides of the bones. Push them right into the bones so they are on the outside of the bones. Lift your butt from the chair and have an assistant measure the distance between your fingertips. This is pretty much your outside.
Some people have sit bones that angle a lot from front to back. The "sits" are heavy thickened portions of the rami area of the pelvis and can have unique personalities of their own. You can measure again on the forward part of the heavy "elbow" bit if you can feel that yours have a definite angle. The forward portion of the heavy thick part of the bone is what your weight rests on more when you are in a more aero position. DON'T measure the thin blade like portion that is in your crotch, that is the rami and you do not want a saddle there. Measure from your backside.
Repeat your measurements a few times, average them out if you want.
You can also get these measurements by lying on your back with your knees to your chest holding a measuring tape and poking around for landmarks.
The Cutout
Cut Out on a Brooks B17 Imperial
Purchasing a saddle with a cut out can be beneficial if you have soft tissue pressure. An easy way to help determine if you might be a good candidate is to sit (commando or in thin underwear)on a very hard surface, feet flat on the floor, pedaling distance apart. Lean forward from the hips, keeping your back straight and place your elbows on your knees. If you soft tissue is feeling overly squished you may want to try a saddle with a cut out. Do some forum research, some people love them, others find the edges of the cut out equally irritating. Assuming you have a good bike fit and proper saddle height, consider adjusting the angle of your current saddle as well to see if that relieves soft tissue pressure.
Length
Years ago some saddle manufacturers started adding a short version to their line. Historically the short version came about for women riding in skirts and dresses, the longer nose would catch on the dress, making mounting and dismounting more challenging. Now a short version is more about personal comfort. Reading Forums and blog post about saddle fit there are numerous opinions about both. Sky King's Fizik Vitesse Tri is a "woman's" saddle but it isn't any shorter in the nose than a Brooks Swallow.
Conclusion
We agree that finding the right saddle can be tough. Sometimes despite the best research, trial and error ends up being the answer. Taking your measurements and understanding your riding style are the beginning of your quest.
For more great info on choosing a Saddle read other blogs and forums. Sky King took the measuring suggestions from posts on the Team Estrogen Forum. Don't be afraid to ask questions. We both ride day in day out without saddle pain on two entirely different saddles.
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